Descriptive Gazetteer Entry for HASTINGS

HASTINGS, a town, a district, and a rape, in Sussex. The town stands on the coast, about 11 miles from the boundary with Kent, nearly midway between Beachy Head and Dungeness, 63 miles by road, and 74 by railway, SE by S of London. The South Coast railway, the Southeastern railway, and a branch of the East Kent have a joint station at the old town of Hastings; the Southeastern has a station also at St. Leonards, about a mile W of the former, and afterwards sends off a branch to Tunbridge; and the South Coast has 1ikewise a station at the extreme W of St. Leonards, a little beyond the junction of the Southeastern's Tunbridge branch. These railways, with their ramifications and connexions, give the town communication with all parts of the kingdom.

History.—A very ancient town is alleged to have stood on ground considerably S of the present one; to have been fortified in the year 40, by Arviragus, against the Romans; and to have, at some unrecorded time before the Conquest, been swept away by the sea. Either that town, if it ever existed, or the nucleus of the present one, appears on record, under the name of Hastings, about the year 780, in the reign of Offa. The ' ' ing '' in its name distinctly marks it as one of the earliest Saxon settlements; and the full name Hastings no less clearly marks it as a settlement of the tribe called the Hæstingas. A Danish sea king, called Hasten or Hastinge, took post at it about 880 or 893; and he has generally, but erroneously, been regarded as the origin of its name. The town was made the place of a mint, in 924, by Athelstan; it made some figure in maritime and state affairs in the time of Edward the Confessor; it had numerous ships and seameu at the time of the Conquest; it was the place of the Conqueror's encampment on the eve of the great battle which won him the crown of England; it has currently given name to that battle, tliongh really fought at the town of Battle, 7 miles distant; and it had a castle which was restored or strengthened by the Conqueror. It was made a member of the Cinque Ports system, organised by the Conqucror to supply the kingdom with high reputation for ship building, partly in consequence of its ready command of material from the great Sussex forests; but it did not rise into importance and wealth equally with Rye and Winchelsea, and therefore did not sustain such burning.s by the French as befell them; yet it was attacked twice by the French in 1217 and 1340, and burnt by them in 1 377. It seems to have had a good harbour till about the beginning of the reign of Elizabeth; but this was then destroyed by the violence of a storm, which carried the pier away; and though efforts were made, at several times, to reconstruct the pier, or to form a new one, they proved unsuccessfnl. The town gradual1y declined till, toward the end of last century, it became a mere fishing village and a retreat of smugglers; but then, in consequence of its being recommended by Dr. Baillie as a resort for his patients, it began to be a watering place; and thence till now it has steadily increased in that character, attracting visitors, and undergoing extension and improvement.

Site and Structure.—The town consists of Hastingsproper and St. Leonards-on-the-Sea; and has a length, along the beach, of fully 2½ miles, witli a breadth, at the broadest part, of about 1¼ mile. The old part lies in a vale or hollow, descending to the beach, and engirt with high hills and cliffs on all sides except toward the sea; and the new part runs westward, along the shore, at the base of a range of steep hills. The whole, in connexion with site and environs, is greatly more picturesque than any other watering place in Sussex; and even presents more striking features than any other in Kent, excepting Dover. The East cliff, at its E end, looks down upon its old parts as upon a picture; and, at the same time, on a clear day, commands a view, across the Channel, to the coast of France. An ancient earth work has left traces here, and is thought by some to have been the Conqueror's camp before his march to Battle, bnt more probably was either a work of prior date or merely an outpost of observation; for the camp, as indicated by the records respecting it, seems to have been on low gronnd, near the site of the.present railway station. The West Cliff, at the W end of the old town, is also a striking object, both from its own contour, and from its being surmounted by remains of the ancient castle. The streets and outskirts within the hollow between the two cliffs continued, till after 1828, to be the entii.e town; and they now present a mixture of old and recent features, and contain a few curious wooden houses. The newer portions there were erected chiefly for visitors, and possess a pleasing character; a strictly new town, at St. Leonards, which may be called the Belgravia of Hastings, was begun in 1828, and long remained entirely separate; extensions westward from the old town and eastward from St. Leonards, eventually uniting them, and comprising large and handsome ranges of houses, arose as the influx of visitors increased; and another large extension, including a great number of elegant houses, has recently been made on crown lands facing the sea in tlie parish of Holy Trinity. An esplanade, 500 feet long, faced with stone, extends along all the coast of the old town, between the E and the W cliffs; and is prolonged by a marine parade to St. Leonards. Pelham crescent stands in a curve of the W cliff or Castle hill, under bold escarpments of the rock; consists of handsome houses, with a church conspicuously in the centre; and is reached, at the E end, by a flight of steps, - at the W end, by a steep carriage road. Wellington square stands under shelter of the W side of the Castle hill; is open, on the S side, toward the sea; consists of elegant houses; and, together with the esplanade, commands extensive views over coast and sea. A handsome arch, of Doric character, in the manner of the ancient triumphal arch, stands on the thoroughfare at tlie boundary point between Hastings proper and St. Leon ards. The Marina, within St. Leonards, and extending along the beach, is a neat range of upwards of 150 bnildings, in Ionic and Corinthian architecture; and has, in its basenients, a covered colonade or series of piazzas, with occasiona1 breaks, to a length of 500 feet. Several of the hotels form fine and prominent features; and, in particular, one in St. Leonards, is both large and very beautiful, while another, built in 1862, in the new extension on the crown lands in Holy Trinity, contains 200 rooms. The hotel in St. Leonards is alleged to cover a rock on which the Conqueror dined on the day of his landing; but the true spot probably was nearer Pevensey. A complex system of drainage in St. Leonards was constructed in 1867.

Public Buildings.—The Castle stood on the S extremity of the West Cliff; needed no fortification there on account of the cliff's vertical descent to the beach; and had its main entrance on the N side, where traces of the portcullis groove and the gates' hinges still exist. Its area was about an acre and a half; is now primly disposed in pleasure grounds; and commands a fine view of both parts of the town and of the coast. Its masonry appears to have been Norman, built immediately or soon after the Conquest, with the materials or on the site of a previous fortress; and seems to have been constructed on a very irregular outline. Fragments of three semicircnlar towers are now on the E side; stumps of a circular tower and a square one, still of considerable height, are on the W side; interesting remains of a chapel, together with stone coffins fouiid by excavation in 1824, also exist. The cast1e was, for a time, a favourite residence of the Conqueror; was the scene of a tournament in honour of his corouation, -the first tournament ever held in England; was given by the Conqueror to the Count of Eu; remained with the Connt's descendants till the middle of the 13th century; passed then to the Crown; and belongs now to the Earl of Chichester. The chapel, though connected with the castle, was ruled by a dean and secular canons; and liad, for a dean, Thomas á Becket, -and for a canon, William of Wyckham. A previous chapel, or one connected with the previous fortress, was the scene of Anselm's consecrating Blovet Bishop of Lincoln.-A strong ancient wall, defeuding the seaward side of the town, extended from the East Cliff to the Castle hill; and some portions of this still exist in Bourne street and George street. A range of martello towers is beyond St. Leonards. Barracks formerly stood to the N of Hastings, but were taken down in 1823. The town hall is used for courts; includes a policestation; and contains a list of the local authorities from t1ie year 1500, and a shield brought from Quebec by General Murray. The jail is in the middle of the town, and has capacity for 15 prisoners. The water works have reservoirs in the vale above the town, and larger oues about a mile distant. A highly ornate drinking fountain stands a little E of Holy Trinity church; is built of Portland stone, in a style to correspoud with the church; is adorned with figures of Christ and the woman of Samaria, and of the four evangelists; and has a groined canopy, surmounting four marble columns, rising from a high massive square base. An Albert clock tower was built in 1864; is in the Gothic style, and 65 feet high; has a statue of the late Prince Consort in a niche on its chief front; and both supplies a drinking fountain and serves as a sea mark. The music hall stands in IIoly Trinity parish; and is recent, handsome, and spacions. The market hall, in George street, is a fine room, belonsing to the local Board of Health; was formerly much used for balls and concerts; is now occupied chiefly for a cornmarket; and stands over a commodious meat and vegetable market. The assembly rooms stand behind the Victoria liotel; and are used for balls and public lectures. Readingrooms, a public library, baths, and a post office, on the parade, opposite the Victoria hotel, are comprised in one building. The London and County bank stands opposite the Albert tower;. and is an ornamental edifice of 1862. The custom house is in West Beach street. A handsome police station for St. Leonards was lately built at Mercatoria. A new harbour was projected in 1862; to comprise an area of 57 acres, with entrance 300 feet wide, and with a depth of 10 feet at low water, and of from 20 to 30 feet at high water; and to be formed by a pier on the W, runuiiig 1, 650 feet sonthward inw o the sea, then curving 1, 230 feet eastward, and by another pier or breakwater on the E, at the distance of 1, 200 feet from the former, and running 1, 650 feet southward into the sea. But late in 1865 the project coutinned to be a project only; and soon afterwards a promenade pier was contemplated. A literary institution is in George street; a mechanics' institution, in Holy Trinity parish; another mechauics' institution, in St. Leonards; and national, proprietory, and endowed schools, in varions localities. There are also an infirmary, two dispensaries, and a number of other benevolent institutions. The borough cem etery at Ore possesses considerable attraction. All Saints church stands picturesquely at the head of the old town; is mainly later English; consists of nave, chancel, and aisles, with western embattled tower; was restored in 1869; and was served by the father of Titus Oates, and has in its register the record of the informer, s baptism. St. Clement's church stands in Highstreet; is also later English; has, in its tower, two balls which were fired from the French and Dutch fleets in 1720; and contains two brasses of 1563 and 1601. St. Mary-in-the-Castle church stands in the centre of Pelham crescent; was built in 1825; has a recessed portico, with a double row of Ionic pillars; and perhaps is the original of Thackeray's Charles Honeyman's chapel. Holy Trinity church occupies the site of an ancient A ugustinian monastery; is a recent erection, in the Gothic style, with open timber roof; and was designed to have a beautiful tower, 120 feet high. St. Leonard's church is a plain Gothic structure of 1831; and succeeded an ancient one, which is supposed to have been swept away by the sea. St. Matthew's was built in 1861; St. Paul's church in 1868. Other churches are St. Clement-Halton, the Fishermen's churc.h, St. Mary Magdalen, and Christ Church. There are three chapels for Independents, three for Baptists, two for Calvinists, two for Wesleyans, one for Primitive Methodists, one for Bible Christians, one for Quakers, one for Presbyterians, and one for Roman Catholics; and there are also a Roman Catholic college and a convent. The Angustinian monastery, on the site of Holy Trinity church, was founded in the time of Richard I., by Sir Walter Bricet; and had revenues valued at £58.

Parishes.—The parishes within the borough are All Saints, St. Clement, St. Andrew, Holy Trinity, St. Michael on the Rock, St. Mary-Magdalen, and St. MaryBulverhithe, large parts of St. Mary in the Castle and St. Leonard on the Sea, and small parts of Ore and Bexhill. St. Andrew is an ancient parish, but has lost both its church and its ecclesiastical status. St. Michael on the Rock also is ancient; but became incorporated ecclesiastically with St. Mary-Magdalen; yet still appoints its officers and maintains its own poor. Holy Trinity was extra-parochial till 1831. St. Mary-Bulverhithe, though returned as a parish, is really but a manor. O re and Bexhill are so slightly connected with Hastings, that they require to be noticed in their own respective places; and the part of Bexhill within Hastings, is only within tlie parliamentary borough, not within the municipal one. St. Clement-Halton ranks as a parochial cbapelry, constituted in 1839.-Acres of All Saints, 461, -of which 95 are water; of St. Clement, 124, -of which 25 are water; of St. Mary in the Castle, 281, -of which 35 are water; of St. Andrew, 1 9; of Holy Trinity, 191; of St. Michael, 5; of St. Maiy-Magdalen, 395; of St. Leonard, 994, -of which 440 are water; of St. MaryBulverhithc, 185. A portion of St. Leonard is detached, and adjoins the town of Winchelsea. Pop. in 1861, of All Saints, 3, 486; of St. Clement, 4, 073; of St. Maryin the Castle, 4, 809, -of whom 4, 626 were in the borough; of St. Andrew, 84; of Holy Trinity, 1, 683; of St. Michael, 441; of St. Mary Magdalen, 7, 106; of St. Leonard, 1, 693, -of whom 1, 241 were in the borough; of St. Mary-Bulverhithe, 68. The livings of All Saints and St. Clement are rectories, those of St. Clement-Halton and St. Mary in theCastle vicarages, the others p. curacies in the diocese of Chichester. Value of all Saints, £240; of St. Clement, £160; * of St. Cleinent-H alton, £100; * of St. Mary in the Castle, £200; of St. Mary-Magdalen, £650; of St. Leonard, £300; of St. Matthew, £110; of the others not reported. Patron of A. S., the Rev. G. A. Foyster; of St. C., the Rev. H. B. Foyster; of St. Mary in the C., the Eai.l of Chichester; of St.Halton and St. Mary-M., the Bishop of C.; of St. Leonard, the Rev. W. R. Tilson Marsh; of the Fishermen's chape1, the Rectors of All Saints and St. Clement; of the others, not reported.

Trade.—The town has a head post office‡ in Georgestreet, sub post offices‡ in High street, George street, and St. Leonards, telegraph offices at the three railway stations andat two ofthelibraries, threebanking offices, with branches at St. Leonards, and nine chief hotels; is the seat of the cinque ports, a polling place, and a head coastguard station; and publishes four newspapers, three of them weekly, the other twice a week. A provision market is held daily; a corn market every Saturday; and fairs on Whit-Tuesday, 26 July, and 23 Nov. Large support is drawn fi.oni the presence of summer visitors; and the chief employments of the poorer classes are fisliing and boat building. The fishing is principally for heriing and mackarel; employs about 150 boats, averaging about 12 tons each; and is prosperons and increasing. The fishermen have peculiar habits, and are supposed to derive some of their customs and daring from the smugglingexperiencesofformergenerations. Caves, saidtohave been used by the smugglers, and known as St. Clement's caves, exist in the West hill, and are frequently lighted up for the inspection of the curious. Commerce appears to have been considerable before the construction of the harbour in the time of Elizabeth; and it may become considerable again should the proposed new harbour ever be completed; but, at present, it consists chiefly in a coasting trade in timber, coal, and building materials.

The Watering-Place.-Hastings, as a watering place, holds a rank about midway between Brighton and Margate. Its climate varies greatly in differeiit parts, according to situation and altitude; and therefore renders it, as a retreat for health, suitable to different classes of invalids. The lower parts, from the East Cliff to Pelham Place, have such thorough shelter as to be suited to delicate pulmonary suffercrs even in winter and spring; the higher parts have an air more bracing and yet milder than the watering places in East Kent, and at the same time present facilities for vigorous exercise; and the parts to the west, especially in the choicer spots of St. Leonards, combine the advantages of the low and the high. The bathing accommodation, in both the E and the W, is good; and has well sheltered spots. Recreations of every kind are plentiful. In door amnsements are as good and varions as in other large watering places; pub Iic bands play on the parade; an archery ground and i subscription gardens are at St. Leonards; a ciicket ground is near tlie Albert Clock tower; tastefully laid out walks form a public garden at St. Andrews; a fine rising gronnd is on tlie Fairlight downs, toward Winchelsea; scope for boating, for fishing, and for other sport is abundant; and numerous enticements to geologists, to antiquaries, and to lovers of the picturesque, are either in the neighbourhood or within easy distances.

The Borough.—Hastings was chartered by Edward the Confessor; acquired all the privileges of a cinque port in the time of William the Conqueror; got a series of charters from Edward I. till Elizabeth; has sent two members to parliament since the time of Edward III.; and is now governed by a mayor, six aldermen, and eighteen councillors. A police force of 23 men is under the council; and a volunteer fire brigade, of 45 men, was established in 1861. The council is also the local Board of Health; and the amount of its expenditure, in its joint capacity, in 1864, was £25, 121. Real property, in 1860, £123, 842; of which £2, 147 were in gas works. Gross rental of property assessed in 1865, £176, 026. Electors, in 1868, 1, 941. Pop. of the m. borough, in 1851, 16, 966; in 1861, 22, 837. Houses, 3, 275. Pop. of the p. borough, in 1861, 22, 910. Houses, 3, 290.-The town gives the title of Marquis to the family of Rawdon-Hastings, and that of Baron to Ear.l Hnutingdon. SirShovell was a resideut, perhaps a native; Louis, Philippe of France spent the winter of 1848 in the Victoria hotel; and Queen Adelaide, Queen Victoria (wlien Princess Victoria), tlie Campbell, and the Prince and Princess of Wales have been visitors.

The-District and the Rape.-The district, or poor law union, comprehends the sub-district of All Saints, con taining the parishes of All Saints and St. Clement; tlie sub-district of St. Mary in the Castle, containing the parishes of St. Mary in the Castle, St. Andrew, Holy Trinity, St. Michael on the Rock, St. Mary-Magdalen, St. Leonard on the Sea, and St. Mary-Bulverhithe; and tlie sub-district of Ore, containing the parishes of Ore, Fairlight, Guestling, and Pett. Acres, 14, 027. Poorrates in 1863, £12, 198. Pop. in 1851, 21, 215; in 1861, 26, 631. Houses, 4, 039. Marriages in 1862, 233; births, 820, -of which 47 were illegitimate; deaths, 509, -of which 175 were at ages under 5 years, and 14 at ages above 85. Marriages in the ten years 1851-60, 1, 667; births, 6, 690; deaths, 4, 348. The places of worship, in 1851, were 11 of the Church of England, with 6, 376 sittings; 2 of Independents, with 610 s.; 2 of Baptists, with 980 s.; 4 of Wesleyans, with 1, 042 s.; 2 of Bible Christians, with 106 s.; 2 undefined, with 310 s.; and 1 of Roman Catholics. The schools were 17 public day schools, with 2, 472 scholars; 28 private day schools, with 609 s.; and 13 Sunday schools, with 2, 258 s. The workhouse is in Ore.-The rape excludes the borough of Hastings, and includes the linndreds of Baldslow, Battle, Bexhill, Foxearle, Goldspur, Gostrow, Guestling, Hawke.sborough, Henhurst, Netherfield, Ninfield, Shoyswell, and Staple, and the port of Winchelsea. Acres, 157, 433. Pop. in 1851, 42, 416; in 1861, 39, 294. Houses, 7, 561.


(John Marius Wilson, Imperial Gazetteer of England and Wales (1870-72))

Linked entities:
Feature Description: "a town, a district, and a rape"   (ADL Feature Type: "cities")
Administrative units: Hastings CP       Hastings RegD/PLU       Sussex AncC
Place: Hastings

Go to the linked place page for a location map, and for access to other historical writing about the place. Pages for linked administrative units may contain historical statistics and information on boundaries.