Picture of Celia Fiennes

Celia Fiennes

places mentioned

Hampton Court and Windsor

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Ffrom Epsham I went to Banstead where the parson of the Parish has diverted himself in his garden these fifty yeares, is now old and doates, but has Curious hedges, one Garden wth Grass plotts and Earth walks Cut and wedd. His grass plotts has stones of divers fformes and sizes which he names Gods and Goddesses; and hedges and arbours of thorn soe neately Cut, and in all ffigures in great rounds. One is a Large arbour: You Enter a straite passage as unto a Cell, but within a roome, round yt by a narrow Entry you Come to a Large Square with trees and seates, all quick sett hedges cut fine. One is a tree wch the ivy has Covered and there are staires up directly upright, and on ye top is an Eight square Bench-round, the Green grows up Close about it cut even, this he Calls " Tenneriff '' being in that fform. Next it is another tree, there is a fflatt and on it is a table or stoole on wch is a Great white stone in form of some statue that apole wth 9 stones round less the muses-this is Parnassus. There are severall heads painted wch are named Mogul Grand Seignior, Cham of Tartary, Zarr of Muscovy, placed in severall places. Another Garden is Grass plotts wth yews and holly Lawrells, round this on the bank is sett stones very thick, some very much bigger for v officers, this is the whole Confederate army and their Generalls. Here is a trumpeter, Hercules and Bacchus and a hedge of Lawrell 7 foote broad. Here are also two trees Cover'd with Ivy and thorne Cut smooth and made in ffashion of two great pillars for Hercules pillars. There is in ye middle some platted together and makes a Cover to a seate below, and there is a Rose Cut out-you may talk as under the Rose. In his house he has many Curiosetyes of stones, one like a brick of bread, another Like a shoulder of mutton, a piece of wood from an old tree as Like a mounteer capp wth a button on the top, another like a furbellow'd peticoat, another stone like an apple paired and a piece Cut out and grown Deadish -its said this is Petrify'd into stone as the moss in Knarsborough and the wood at Apsley in Bedfordshire; here were many Shells, Birds, jndian shoes, bootes, purses &.

Ffrom Epsham to Leatherhead 3 mile, we pass by Sr Robert Howards which I have described. Here is a little town where they make much v Leather, and other little trades, many Butchers which supply Epsham. Here it is that the water which sinks away at Swallow hole at Mole under Box Hill which is 7 mile off, and here it Bubbles up in twenty places from a hill, and Compases a great river half a mile off, over which a long bridge of 14 great arches of stone by their Height shews sometimes the water to be very deep. A little farther its so deep as cannot be fforded, here the Channell is not so broad, only four Large Arches. We goe over thence a mile and halfe to Mr Moores ffine house on a hill, its built wth brick and stone Coyned, and the windows Stone, nine sashes to the Garden; the jutting out in the middle is three windows. The top is in a peak painted frisco, and a Cornish round on Each side; a low building Each End Like Wings wth same Cornish Leaded and flower potts on it, wch are the offices on one Side, and Lead to a summer House and backward to the private Entrance, a Court yt you ascend by steps of stone and jron barristers with turnings and halfe paces to the part of ye house in Constant use. The ffront in the Entrance is as the Garden, only here are but Eight windows, only two in the middle jutting the top, and that here you see not those two Low wings. You Enter by the Church yard, noe great Court or roome for it, a very Little court wch on the right hand Leads into ye garden on a banck green walke, to a seate or summer house finely painted and stands on four pillars. Within this Leads into a gravel walk wch goes round ye first Garden. The summer house you might pass through to the same green banck walk, which Leads to a broad Grass walk on the right hand up the hill near a quarter of a mile, Each side planted wth trees, and ye ground some for kitchen gardens orchards hott beds. The top of the hill has two white seates and a summer house, this has white open gates, Large as the walk. Here is a very fine pond runs across the breadth of the gardens and orchards. The Garden at the house is all flatt, much in Grass walks and bancks sett wth green, most yews. There is a great gravel walk to the fountain from the middle of the house, wch is filled by a Long Cannall as broad as the walk; at the farther End is a trion gilt, with a horn wch can blow the water 20 yards. Here are seates on the bancks, and ye ground is set much in Grass walks wth dwarfe greens, which Cutts the grass plotts into four, which are Cutt into fflower deluces and Severall Devices wth paths of Gravell, borders of mould, in which are greens of all sorts, Piramids and then round jnterchangeable. Beyond this is another space as Large, wth a round space wth a Large stone ffigure, and severall Less ffigures of brass in the little squares and strapps of grass, wch was fform'd by Cross and round gravell walks. There is two broad Gravell walks runns aslaunt like two wings from the first garden, as it were parrallel wth the Cannall, and these terminate in a wood wch has a Glide through trees Cut aslant, agreable to the walks to give the view quite to Hampton town. Thence to Hampton Court by Kingston 6 mile, all by the park, the palace Enters just by the Thames. On the gate is Lyon, Unicorn and fflower potts, the Starre and garter and Draggon ye thistle and rose Carv'd. Here is a space where the Stables on one side and houses for suttlers for to provide for the servants. The front is in a Demy Circle-At the gates four towers of Brick. Beyond the half moone are two straite buildings in wch are gates, at the Ends two such brick towers, soe you Enter through those four towers. The guard Court on the Left goes to ye old Buildings. On the Right you enter a long paved Entry; on one side are Lodgings, at the End are Cloysters round a Court which has a Large ffountaine in Grass, and at Each Corner a painted post for balls or Statues. The grass is planted round with Lawrell and yew, ffilleroy and Cyprus, cut a round head, and a Piramid. The Cloysters Lead to the royal Staircase which is very Lofty and spacious wth arches for seates, the steps jron railes Carv'd and gilt, the wall black and gold painted wth armory like a wanscoate. Over that is Curious paintings, the twelve Caesars, over- that the banquet of the Gods, all at Length, with Ceres over ye side board wth plenty. The rooffe is angells and Cherubims, the ffront on the halfe pace is Julian and the spectre that appear'd to him, in a tent of green, the Curtain drawn soe bold as if real wth gold ffringe. Here you Enter ye guard Chamber adorn'd with pikes, Halberts, Biounetts Daggers and Pistolls and gunns, wth Bandeleers or pouches for amunition, all set in workes and ffigures about the Wanscoate, over ye Chimney Pistolls and Daggers sett like the starre in the garter Thence you go into an anty room hung wth tapestry, thence into ye Common audience roome where was a throne and Cannopy, crimson Damaske with Gold ffringe; the form the same round the roome. Here was King Charles ye firsts Picture on horseback over the mantlepiece. All the rooffes of the roomes are Curiosly painted wth different storyes. Out of this you Enter the Grand state roome which has King Williams Picture at Length on the Mantlepiece, ffine Pictures over all doores and Carvings in wood. The throne and Cannopy here was Scarlet velvet with Rich Gold orrice and window Curtains. Thence into the dineing roome where hangs in ye middle a Chrystall Branch for Candles. Its hung with tapistry, I think its here the Queen of Bohemias Picture is over the Chimney piece-Sophia's mother. The window Curtaines flower'd Crimson Damaske wth gold ffringe; thence the drawing roome wch has a Silver branch in the middle, and sconces and Queen Marys Picture-here is Crimson velvet. Out of this is the presence Chamber wth a Low screen across the roome to keep company off the bed wch is scarlet velvet wth gold orrice and hung wth fine tapistry. Out of ye bedchamber goes the dressing roome hung wth yellow damaske and Chaires the same. Here was the queen mother Dutchess of Yorks Picture over the Chimney, here is a doore into the private Lodgings where there is 2 bed Chambers, one Jndian Embroydery the other a mixt damaske; and Closets and antyroomes to the galleryes and backstaires.

Out of the dressing roome is the Queens Closet, the hangings, Chaires, Stooles and Screen the same, all of satten stitch done in worsteads, beasts, birds, jmages and ffruites all wrought very ffinely by Queen Mary and her maids of honour.

From thence into a Large Long gallery Wanscoated, and pictures of all the Roman warrs on one side, the other side was Large Lofty windows, two marble tables in two peers wth two great open jarrs on Each side, Each table two such; at the End the same for to put potts of orange and mirtle trees in. The window Curtaines and couches or fformes all green and white rich damaske. Out of this into a Long gallery, plain wanscoate without any adornment, which is for people to waite in, Either of the servants of the houshold or who waites in buissness of the ordinary sort, and here are doores that Lead to the back staires and to private Lodgings. This Leads at the End into the part was design'd for the Kings side, into a noble Gallery wth Curious Pictures of ye scriptures painted by the Carthusion.

The King of Ffrance offer'd 3000 pound apiece for them, or indeed any money. Here are green and white Damaske window Curtaines and Couches as the other was. This Leads to roomes not ffinished in the same number as on the queen's side-one is begun to be painted on the top. The sides of the walls are painted just Like pieces of tapestry here is Prince Georges picture at Length, wth his Dukall Corronet, and an Anchor as High Admirall, and thus to the other roomes, to ye guardroome and Royal Staircase as on the Queens side, but none here ffinish'd. The Leads gives a vast sight all about of the parke and gardens, the ffront of the house to the garden has four Large stone ffigures Hercules, jupiter, Mars, Neptune.

There is a long Cannall runs from the ffront a great way, and a Large ffounttaine next the house in the first garden, wth a broad Gravell and a Cross. till I came almost to Windsor -I drove by some of the fforest and the parke and came in another way into town by ye Castle across K: Charles's Walk. jn the Castle yard is a Little box the queen has bought of Lord Godolphin. The garden joyns to the Duke of St Albans for a little retreate out of ye Palace. You Enter a Brick Court, on the Left is a Little Guard roome, on ye Right a Row of roomes wth Chambers over them for the Kitchen and Pastry and Butteryes, and a Little garden pailed in. Then you go on, and on the Left hand Enter the house into an Entry: on the Left is a little parlour for ye Ladies of honour to dine in, beyond that Back Staires Pantry and a Cistern or Place to Wash things in; by that is the guard roome, under it the Cellars.

On the Right hand is a Large Antyroome for persons to wait, where are Marble tables in ye Peeres between the windows; white damaske window curtaines and cane chaires. Next it is the Dineing roome some stepps down, where was red silk Curtaines Chaires and stooles, and Benches round the roome all red silk, wth same coulld orrice Lace; here was a white marble table behind the doore as a sideboard, and a Clap table under ye Large Looking Glass between the windows. Next this was a drawing roome; both these roomes were hung wth small Jmage tapistry very Lively and ffresh, here was Crimson Damaske window Curtaines, Chaires and stooles. The next was what was Prince George's dressing roome, hung, and window Curtaines Chaires and stooles, all wth yellow damaske, wth marble Chimney pieces as all ye Roomes have of Differing Coullrs black white, grey, rance & &. Large Looking-glasses; all the roomes in all ye house is plaine unvarnished oake Wanscoate which Lookes very neate. Wth in the dressing roome is a Closet on one hand, the other side is a Closet yt Leads to a little place wth a seate of Easement of Marble wth sluces of water to wash all down. There is a back doore in ye dressing roome, to a little anty roome with presses, a little Wanscoate table for tea, cards or writeing, so to a back staires;-the Queen's appartment is over it. From ye Greate Staire at the Entrance of the house Lands you in a passage that Enters-the anty roome is Crimson damaske curtains. Great chaire and Stooles and Benches; the same next it. The presence roome here is ffigured Crimson Velvet window Curtaines, Chaires and stooles; here is the Q. A Wife to K. James the First at Length in her Rideing habit, by her horse and three or four Couple of hounds- these were hung wth ffine tapistry as the two below.

Next this was the Queen's bedChamber, hung, the bed, window-curtaines the same, all Rich Crimson Damaske. Here was the screen round the bed as the manner is to all the Souveraignes beds. Over the Chimney was Prince George's Picture and by the side of the bed was the Duke of Glocester's in an oval. Thence into a Dressing-roome hung with Divers Coulld flowered sattin, chaires and stooles the same, ffine fflower'd muslin window curtaines, A fine Little high screen burnt jappan of 4 Leaves, another Chimney screen wth 4 Leaves of the stone work in ffigures -jndian. Out of this was ye Queens Closet just over Prince Georges but yt was Locked. The other side was a little waiting roome to Just such marble seates of Easemt wth the sluces of water as that below was in the Queens bedChamber. Overright ye Entrance of the dressing-roome was another Little Closet with the tea Equipage, and under that was such a Little tea roome within ye drawingroome. Here in the dressing roome was a backway to a little waiting passage, with presses and such little wanscoate tables; this Leads to the back staires where there is one bedchamber. The Queen's appartment ffronts the garden; out of the drawing roome you come on a terrass of Gravell, then descend stepps down a green banck to a large green space that has 4 bench seates painted white; behind them is a Green bank, and a Large space of green on Either end fill'd with trees, Lawrell ffrilleroy, Cyprus, yews, heads a Pirramids, and Mirtles. This is ffenced with jron palasadoes painted, to another garden cut in squares and ffigures, with all sorts of fflowers and greens, which has at ye End a Cut hedge and Leads on to a sort of orchard with dwarfe trees. These gardens and orchards is in Gravel Walks and Long green walks, in variety as such a thing in miniature can admitt.

I drove through another part of Windsor to see a Race run by two ffootemen-an English and Scotch-the fformer a taller Bigger man than the other. The ground Measur'd and Cut even in a round ring was almost four mile; they were to run it round so often as to make up 22 mile, which was the distance between Chareing Cross and Windsor Cross-that was five times quite round and so farre as made up the odd miles and Measure. They ran a round in 25 minutes. I saw them run the first three rounds and halfe another' in an hour and seventeen minutes, and they ffinished it in two hours and a halfe. The English gain'd the second round the start, and kept it at the same distance ye five rounds, and then the Scotchman came up to him and got before him to the post. The Englishman fell down within a few yards of the post. Many hundred pounds were won and lost about it, they ran both very neately, but my judgment Gave it ye Scotchman because he seem'd to save himself to ye Last Push.

I drove home by a fine house of Lord Rawnelaughs, 14 windows in the ffront, a square building-much gardening and Curious they say, but that Ladyes Pride is, none must see them, and soe Drove a ffine Gravell road cut with rows of trees. In a mile you come to a broad open way to Windsor on the Left hand, on the Right to a little house of ye Duchess of Marlboroughs, which is very exact gardens and ffountaines, Cut hedges and Groves, pail'd in; ffrom this house is the ffine Gravell walke continued very broad between high rows of trees-on one hand a ffine Grove of straite trees.

This is three mile to Windsor all a Clear visto to the Castle, to that which is K. Charle's Walke for Shooting, which you Enter by a Broad Pallasadoe-ffences the whole breadth of the road. So at ye other End which is a mile and goes out into the road wch comes ffrom Hampton Court which you Cross into the yards and Courts that lead up into the Castle.

Celia Fiennes, Through England on a Side Saddle in the Time of William and Mary (London: Field and Tuer, The Leadenhall Press, 1888)

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