1698 Tour: Shrewsbury to Bristol

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Y^e town stands Low, y^e spires of 2 of y^e Churches stand high and appear Eminent above y^e town, there is y^e remaines of a Castle, y^e walls and battlements and some towers w^ch I walked round, from whence had y^e whole view of y^e town w^ch is walled round w^th battlements and walks round, some of which I went on. Its here the fine river Severn Encompasses y^e greatest part of y^e town and twines and twists its self about, its not very broad here but its very deep and is Esteemed y^e finest river in England to Carry such a depth of water for 80 or more miles together Ere it runns into y^e sea w^ch is at Bristol. This Comes out of Wales, Ross and Monmouthshire, there it turns about and Comes to y^e town. On Each side there are 3 bridges over it, in y^e town one of them y^t I walked over had some few houses built on it, as London bridge, at one End of it. Its pleasant to walk by y^e river; there is just by it the Councill house an old building. Here are three free schooles together, built of free stone, 3 Large roomes to teach the Children, w^th severall masters. Y^e first has 150? a year y^e second 100 y^e third 50^? a year and teach Children from reading English till fit for y^e University, and its free for Children not only of y^e town but for all over England if they Exceed not y^e numbers. Here is a very fine Market Cross of stone Carv'd, in another place there is an Exchequer or hall for y^e towns affaires, there is alsoe a hall for y^e Welsh manufacture. There is a water house w^ch supplys y^e town through pipes w^th water, but its drawn up w^th horses and it seemes not to be a good and Easye way, so they jntend to make it with a water Engine in the town. There are many good houses but mostly old buildings, timber; there is some remaines of a great abbey and just by it y^e great Church, but nothing fine or worth notice save y^e abbey Gardens w^th gravell walks set full of all sorts of greens-orange and Lemmon trees: I had a paper of their flowers-were very fine,-there was alsoe ffirrs, myrtles and hollys of all sorts and a green house full of all sorts of Curiosityes of flowers and greens-there was y^e aloes plant. Out of this went another Garden much Larger w^th severall fine grass walks kept Exactly Cut and roled for Company to walke in. Every Wednesday most of y^e town y^e Ladyes and Gentlemen walk there as in S^t James' parke, and there are abundance of people of Quality Lives in Shrewsbury, more than in any town Except Nottingham; its true there are noe fine houses but there are many Large old houses that are Convenient and stately, and its a pleasant town to Live in and great plenty w^ch makes it Cheap Living. This is very near bordering on Wales and was reckon'd formerly one of y^e Welsh County's as was Herifordshire. Here is a very good schoole for young Gentlewomen for Learning work and behaviour and musick.

From Shrewsbury I went through the great ffaire w^ch was just kept that day there, full of all sorts of things and all the roade for 10 mile at Least I met y^e people and Commoditys going to the ffaire. 2 mile thence I passed over the River Cern on a Large stone bridge, this is deep and joyns the Severn and soe I Rode by the great hill Called the Reeke noted for the highest piece of ground in England, but it must be by those that only Live in the heart of y^e Kingdom and about London, for there are much higher hills in the north and West and alsoe not 40 mile distant from it; Manborn hills seems vastly higher. This hill stands just by itself a round hill and does raise its head much above y^e hills neare it, and on the one side does Looke a great steepe down, but still my thoughts of the ffells in Cumberland and Westmoreland are soe farr beyond it in height that this would not be mentioned there; it is seen 20 mile off and soe may many other hills, but when I Rode just under it I was full Convinc'd its height was not in Competition w^th those in other parts that I have seen.

There are great hills all about w^ch I pass'd over full of Coale pitts. Here I Came into y^e Whatling Streete w^ch is one of y^e great roads of England w^ch divided y^e Land into so many Kingdoms under y^e Saxons. The roads are pretty good but y^e miles are Long, from Shrewsbury to y^e Reeke is 9 mile, from thence to S^r Thomas Patsells house 10 mile more; here I went to see his Gardens w^ch are talk'd off as y^e finest and best kept, y^e house is old and Low, if y^e Gentleman had Lived he Did design a new house, its now his sons who is an Infant. Before you Come to y^e house for a quarter of a mile you Ride between fine Cut hedges, and y^e nearer y^e approach the finer still, they are very high and Cut Smoothe and Even just Like y^e hedges at Astrop waters, and of Each side beyond are woods, some regular Rows, some in its native Rudeness, w^th ponds beyond in grounds beneath it. Y^e End of this walke you Enter a Large gate of open Iron grates, w^th as many more jron grates on Each side as the Breadth of y^e gate, opposite to this is just another that opens into those grounds I first mention'd. There is a Large pitched Court w^th some open jron gates and grates at Each End, y^t gives the visto quite a Cross through to other Rows of trees w^ch runs up all about y^e severall avenues.

In this Court stands two Dyals between w^ch is an open gate and pallasadoes, the whole breadth of y^e front of this jron work w^ch Leads to the jnner Court, and on y^e other side just in front, is another Large gate Carv'd Iron w^th pillars brick and stone and flower potts; and on Each side to take the whole Breadth of y^e house to w^ch it faces and soe give the sight of the garden is open pallisadoes, and a Little beyond are two more such open Pallisadoes that are Corner wayes, and discovers the Groves whose walks Looks Every way, so y^t to stand in this outward Court you M ay see the house, and Court full of statues in Grass plotts, w^th a broad pav'd walke to the house. In y^e middle on y^e one side are flower gardens and y^e parke, y^e other side other grounds w^th rows of trees and by it very handsome stables and Coach houses, and then in the ffront this Large opening to this garden where is a ffountaine all wayes playing very high, the water, the Gravel walks, and fine flowers and greens of all sorts in potts and on the borders. This gate I mention'd had brick pillars w^th stone heads on w^ch stood a turky Cock on each Cut in stone and painted proper. Y^e grove I mention'd is the finest I Ever saw, there are six walks thro' it and just in the Middle you Look twelve wayes w^ch Discovers as Many severall prospects, Either to y^e house or Entrance or fountaines or Gardens or ffields. The Grove itself is peculiar being Composed of all sorts of greens that hold their verdure and beauty all the yeare, and flourishes most in y^e winter season when all other Garden beautys fades, of ffirrs, both silver, Scots, Noroway, Cyprus, Yew, Bays & the severall squares being set full of these Like a Maze; they are Compassed round Each square w^th a hedge of Lawrell about a yd high Cut Exactly smooth and Even, there are also box trees in the middle. There are two other Large Gardens w^th Gravell walkes, and grass plotts full of stone statues, the stone is taken out of y^e quarry's about this Country, w^ch is not a very firme stone and so the Weather Cracks them.

In one of these Gardens just the side of y^e house into w^ch it opens w^th glass doors and just over against it is a Large Avery of birds w^th branches of trees stuck into the Ground; by it is a Little Summer house neately painted, beyond this is another Garden w^th a broad Gravel walke quite round. In the middle is a Long as well as Large ffountaine or pond w^ch is Called a sheete of water, at y^e four Corners are seates shelter'd behind and on y^e top and sides w^th boards painted, on w^ch you sit secured from the weather, and Looks on the water w^ch has 348 Lead pipes at y^e brims of it w^ch takes in the sides and End and w^th the turning a sluce they streame at once into the fountaine w^ch Looks well and makes a pleaseing sound. If those pipes were but turned in a bow it would Cast the water in an arch and so would augment the Beauty of y^e prospect. There are 2 Large Images stands in the Midst y^t Cast out water and 4 sea horses all Casting out water. In the other Gardens there were Little figures w^ch bedewed the borders w^th their showers.

This Large pond I spoke of before is very deep and good ffish Encreasing in it. There is another great pond in a ground beyond, w^ch Lyes to view thro' those green pallasadoes and is stored w^th much good ffish. Thence I went to Aubery 2 miles, a Little Market town, thence to Pauckeridge and passed through some parcks w^ch belongs to some Gentlemens seate. I went by one M^r Peirpoynts, and S^r Walter Rochlys house, w^ch stands on a hill in a thicket of trees, and soe Came againe to the Whatling-street way and soe over Kankewood to Woolsly-in all 14 mile ffarther. From Woolsly to Haywood parke 2 mile, and home againe 2 mile, from Woolsley to Kanktown 6 mile, thence to Woolverhampton 6 mile. I went more in sight of S^r Walter Rochly w^ch stands very finely on a hill and woods by it-Lookes very stately. These miles are very Long thro' Lanes. I passed by a fine house Prestwitch M^r Philip Ffolies, a pretty seate in a parke, a mile beyond there is another house of y^e same Gentlemans. Here we had y^e Inconveniency of meeteing the Sherriffs of Staffordshire Just going to provide for y^e Reception of y^e Judges and officers of y^e Assizes, whose Coaches and Retinue Meeteing our Company w^ch was encreased w^th Cosen Ffiennes' Coach and horsemen, w^ch made us difficult to pass Each other in the hollow wayes and Lanes.

Thence to the Seven Starres where we baited, thence 2 miles ffarther we Entred out of Staffordshire into Worcestershire to Broad water, a place where are severall ffullers and Dyers mills.

Thence on y^e Right hand are fforging mills for jron works w^ch belong to M^r Tho: Ffolie, there is a Rocky hill in w^ch is a Roome Cut out in the Rocks.

On y^e Left hand you goe 7 mile to Ambusly, a very sad heavy way all sand, you goe just at Kederminster town End w^ch is a Large town much Employ'd about y^e worstead trade, spinning and weaving. We also Rode by S^r John Packingtons house on the Left hand on the hill just by Droitwitch where are the 3 salt springs, divided by a ffresh spring that runs by it; of this salt water they boyle much salt that turns to good amount. All y^e way from the Seven Starrs where we baited to Ambusly y^e Road was full of y^e Electers of y^e Parliament men Coming from the Choice of y^e Knights of the Shire, w^ch spake as they were affected, some for one some for another, and some were Larger in their judgments than others, telling their reason much according to the good Liquors operation, and of these people all the publick houses were filled that it was a hard Matter to get Lodging or Entertainm^t .

We entered Worcester town next day just as y^e Cerimony of the Election was performing, and soe they Declared it in favour of M^r Welsh and S^r John Packington. 4 mile more to this town-from broad water in all is 11 mile. Worcester town w^ch is washed by the river Severn is a Large Citty-12 Churches, the streetes most of them broad, the buildings some of them are very good and Lofty, its Encompass'd w^th a wall w^ch has 4 gates that are very strong. The Market place is Large, there is a Guildhall besides the Market house w^ch stands on pillars of stone. The Cathedrall stands in a Large yard, pitch'd, its a Lofty Magnificent building, the Quire has good Wood Carv'd and a pretty organ, there is one tombstone stands in the Middle of y^e quire by the railes on which Lyes the Effigies of King John, the Left side of alter is prince Arthurs tomb of plaine Marble in a ffine Chappell w^ch is made all of stone ffinely Carv'd, both the Inside and the outside is very Curiously Carv'd in all sorts of works and Arms, beasts and flowers, under it Lyes the statues of severall Bishops, beyond this are two tombstones w^th y^e ffigure of y^e body in their proper dress, of 2 Saxon Bishops on y^e pavement.

The painting of y^e Windows are good and they are pretty Large and Lofty tho' Nothing Comparable to the Cathedrall at york. The tower is high and about the Middle of it you may walke round y^e Inside and Look down into the body of y^e Church just as it is in york. Just against y^e pulpit in y^e body of the Church is a Little organ to set the Psalme. Y^e ffont is all of white marble and a Carv'd Cover of wood.

From Worcester we pass'd a Large stone bridge over the Severn on w^ch were many Barges that were tow'd up by strength of men 6 or 8 at a tyme.

The water just by the town Encompasses a Little piece of Ground full of Willows and so makes it an jsland, part of w^ch turns Mills. Thence I went 4 mile where I Cross y^e River Thames on a stone Bridge, this runs to Whitborne and is a very Rapid Streame Especially after raines, w^ch Just before we begun our Journey had fallen and made the roads, w^ch are all Lanes full of stones and up hills and down, so steep that w^th y^e raines y^e waters stood or Else ran down y^e hills, w^ch made it Exceeding bad for travelling. When we had gone 7 mile, at a Little Parish, you Enter out of Worcester into Herriffordshire and soe 7 mile ffarther to Stretton Grandsorm and new house, my Cos'n Fiennes's. This is the worst way I ever went in Worcester or Herriffordshire, its allwayes a deep sand and soe in the winter and w^th muck is bad way, but this being in August it was strange and being so stony made it more Difficult to travell. From thence I went to Stoake 4 miles, where I saw M^r Folies new house w^ch was building and will be very ffine when Compleated. There is to be 3 flat ffronts to y^e Gardens sides; the Right Wing of y^e house is the severall appartments for the ffamily, 2 drawing roomes and bed Chambers and Closets opening both on a terrass of free stone pavements, Each End and the middle there is stone stepps goes down on Each side, w^th half paces to the garden w^ch is by more stepps descending one below another. The other wing is to y^e other Garden and are to be Roomes of State w^ch Lookes towards Herrifford town. this is to be Coupled together w^th a Large Hall w^ch Composes the ffront and is of stone work, the rest is brick only Coyn'd w^th stone and y^e windows stone, and is in forme of a halfe moone Each side w^th arches to the several offices and stables. To this ffront w^ch is to be the Entrance Large opening Iron spike gates w^ch Lookes into their Grounds and Meddowes below it, of a Great Length w^th Rows of trees to y^c river. The Roofe is Cover d w^th slatt w^ch shines and very much represents Lead, its adorn'd round y^e Edges w^th stone ffigures and flower potts. There is a noble parck and woods behind-it will be very ffine when ffinished, now I saw it only in the outside shell and platt form. thence I returned to Newhouse 4 mile. Thence I went to Canaan Ffroom a mile and one mile back w^ch was 2 mile more, then to Stretton four tymes and back w^ch was 8 mile, then from Newhouse to Aldbery 5 miles, thence to Marlow 3 mile and there Entred Gloucestershire. They are pretty long miles and in the winter deep way, though now it was pretty good travelling its 8 mile beyond to Glocestertown tho' in most places near London this would be reckon'd 20 miles; you may see the town 4 miles off. Glocester town Lyes all along on the bancks of y^e Severn and soe Look'd Like a very huge place, being stretch'd out in Length, its a Low Moist place therefore one must travel on Causeys which are here in good repaire. I pass'd over a Bridge where two armes of the river meetes where y^c tyde is very high and rowles in the sand in many places and Causes those Whirles or Hurricanes that will Come on storms w^th great jmpetuosity.

Thence I proceeded over another Bridge into y^e town whose streetes are very well pitch'd, Large and Cleane. There is a faire Market place and Hall for y^e assizes w^ch happened just as we Came there, soe had y^e worst Entertainemt and noe accomodation but in a private house. Things ought not to be Deare here, but Strangers are allwayes imposed on and at such a publick tyme alsoe they make their advantages. Here is a very Large good Key on the river, they are supply'd w^th Coales by y^e shipps and Barges w^ch makes it plentifull; they Carry it on sledges thro' y^e town-its the great Warwickshire Coale I saw unloading. Here they follow knitting stockings, gloves wauscoates and peticoates and sleeves all of Cotten, and others spinn the Cottens. The Cathedrall or minster is Large, Lofty and very neate, the Quire pretty. At y^e Entrance there is a seate over head for y^e Bishop to sit in to hear the sermon preached in y^e body of y e Church, and therefore the organ is in the Quire on one side w^ch used to be at y^e Entrance. There was a tomb stone in y^e middle w^th a statue of Duke Roberts, second son to William the Conquerours son, w^th his Legs across as is the manner of all those that went to the holy warre; this is painted and resembles marble tho' it is but wood and soe Light as by one ffinger you may move it up, there is an jron Grate over it. At y^e alter the painting is soe ffine that y^e tapistry and pillars and ffigure of Moses and Aaron soe much to the Life you would at Least think it Carv'd. There are 12 Chappells all stone finely Carv'd on y^e walls and rooffs, the windows are pretty Large and high w^th very good painting, there is a Large window just over y^e Alter but between it and y^e alter is a hollow walled in on each side w^ch is a Whispering place; speake never so Low just in the Wall at one End the person at y^e other End shall heare it plaine tho' those w^ch stand by you shall not heare you speake-its y^e Wall Carrys y^e voyce. This seems not quite soe wonderfull as I have heard, for y^e Large roome in Mountague house soe remarkable for fine painting I have been in it, and when y^e Doores are shutt its so well suited in y^e Walls you Cannot tell where to find the Doore if a stranger, and its a Large roome Every way. I saw a Lady stand at one Corner and turn herself to the wall and whisper'd, y^e voice Came very Cleer and plaine to y^e Company that stood at y^e Crosse Corner y^e roome soe y^t it Could not be Carry'd by y^e side wall, it must be the arch overhead w^ch was a great height. -But to return to y^e Church, the tower was 203 stepps, the Large bell I stood upright in but it was not so bigg as y^e great Tom of Lincoln, this bell at Glocester is raised by ten and rung by 6 men On the tower Leads you have a prospect of y^e whole town, gardens and buildings and grounds beyond and y^e river Severn in its twistings and windings. Here are y^e fine Lamprys taken in great quantetys in their season, of w^ch they make pyes and potts and Convey them to London or Else where, such a present being fitt for a king; this and y^e Charr fish are Equally rare and valuable. Here are very good Cloysters finely adorn'd with ffretwork, here is the Colledge and Library but not stored w^th many books. I think this was all the remarkable in Glocester. From thence I went in Company all this while w^th my Cos'n Ffilmer and family. We Came to Nymphsffield after having ascended a very steep narrow and stony hill, 10 mile to Nympsfield all bad way, but the 20 mile afterwards made up for its badness, for these were Exceeding good wayes. 2 mile to Cold harbour thence 15 Landsdon-Long, but bowling green way. Here I passed by Babington, the Duke of Beaufforts house stands in a Parke on an advanc'd Ground w^th rows of trees on all sides w^ch runns a good Length, and you may stand on y^e Leads and Look 12 wayes down to y^e parishes and Grounds beyond all thro Glides or visto of trees. The Gardens are very fine and water works. On Landsdon hill Summersetshire begins w^ch is a very pleasant hill for to Ride on for aire and prospect; I went 3 mile over it w^ch Leads to y^e Bath down a vast steep descent of a stony narrow way as is all y^e wayes down into y^e town. The Bath is a pretty place full of good houses all for y^e accommodation of the Company that resort thither to Drink or Bathe in the summer. The streetes are faire and well pitch'd, they Carry most things on sledges, and y^e Company all y^e morning y^e Chaires of Bayes to Carry them to the Bath- soe they have the Chaire or Sedan to Carry them in visits. There is a very fine hall w^ch is set on stone pilllars w^ch they use for y^e balls and dancing. This is the only new thing since I was at y^e Bath before, Except the fine adornements on y^e Cross in the Cross bath, fine Carving of stone w^th the English arms and Saints and Cupids, according to the phaneze and Religion of King James the Seconds Queen Mary of Modina, as part of her thanks and acknowledgments to y^e saints or Virgin Mary for the Welsh Prince she Imposed on us. From the Bath I went westward to Bristol over Landsdown 10 mile, and passed thro' Kingswood and was met w^th a great many horses passing and returning Loaden w^th Coales Dug just thereabout; they give 12 pence a horse Load w^ch Carrys two Bushells, it makes very good ffires, this is y^e Cakeing Coale. Bristol Lyes Low in a bottom the Greatest part of the town, tho' one End of it you have a pretty rise of ground.

There are 19 Parish Churches beside the Cathedrall, w^ch has nothing fine or Curious in it. The Buildings of y^e town are pretty high, most of timber work, the streetes are narrow and something Darkish because the roomes on y^e upper storys are more jutting out, soe Contracts y^e streete and the Light. The Suburbs are better buildings and more spacious streetes. There are at one place as you Enter the town 2 almshouses, 6 men and 6 women a piece at Each. There is alsoe at another part of y^e town a Noble almshouse more Like a Gentlemans house, y^t is all of stone work, a handsome Court w^th gates and Pallisadoes before four grass plotts divided by paved walks and a walk round y^e same. The one side is for y^e women the other for y^e men, the middle building is 2 Kitchins for Either and a middle roome in Common for washing and brewing, over all is a Chappell. They have Gardens behind it w^th all things Convenient. They have their Coales and 3 shillings p^r weeke allowed to Each to. maintain them, this is for decayed tradesmen and wives that have Lived well; its set up and allowed to by M^r Coleson a merch^t in London. This town is a very great tradeing Citty as most In England, and is Esteemed the Largest next London. The river Aven y^t is flowed up by the sea into y^e Severn and soe up the Aven to the town, Beares shipps and Barges up to the Key, where I saw y^e harbour was full of shipps carrying Coales and all sorts of Commodityes to other parts. The bridge is built over w^th houses just as London bridge is, but its not so bigg or Long-there are 4 arches here. They have Little boates w^ch are Call'd Wherryes such as we use on the Thames, soe they use them here to Convey persons from place to place, and in many places there are signes to many houses that are not Publick houses just as it is in London, the streetes are well pitch'd, and preserved by their useing sleds to Carry all things about. There is a very faire market place and an Exchange set on stone Pillars. In another place there is a very high and magnificent Cross built all of y^e stone or sort of Marble of y^e Country, its in the manner of Coventry Cross a Piramedy fform running up of a great height, w^th severall divisions in nitches where is King Johns Effigy and severall other, adorned w^th armes and figures of Beasts and birds and flowers. Great part of it Gilt and painted and soe terminates in a spire on y^e top, the Lower part is white Like Marble. Just by the water side is a Long rope yard w^ch is Encompass'd w^th trees on Either side w^ch are Lofty and shady, therefore its made Choice of for y^e Company of y^e town to take y^e Diversion of walking in the Evening. This Compasses round a Large space of ground w^ch is Called y^e marsh-a green ground. There was noe remaines of the Castle. There are 12 gates to y^e Citty, there is a very Large Conduit by y^e Key finely Carv'd, all stone, this Conveys the water about y^e town but all y^e water has a Brackish taste. There is one Church w^ch is an Entire worke all of stone, noe timbers but y^e Rafters and beames belonging to y^e Roofe and y^e seates they sit in. Y^e Leads are very high and Large and very neate kept, the tower 15 stepps upon w^ch the whole Citty is discover'd, w^ch by reason of the good gardens and grounds within its walls is a very Large tract of ground in y^e whole. There you see the Colledge green in w^ch stands the Cathedrall and y^e Doctors houses, w^ch are not very fine, built of stone. There are some few monuments in this Church w^th good Carvings of stone round y^e tombs and some Effigies, there are 8 bells in this Church, there is 2 men goes to y^e ringing y^e biggest bell. From thence I went 2 miles to y^e hott spring of water w^ch Lookes Exceeding Cleer and is as warm as new milk and much of that sweetness. This is just by S^t Vincents Rocks y^t are Great Clifts w^ch seeme as bounds to y^e river Aven, this Channell was hewn out of those Rocks. They Digg y^e Bristol Diamonds w^ch Look very Bright and sparkling and in their native Rudeness have a great Lustre and are pointed and Like y^e Diamond Cutting; I had a piece just as it Came out of y^e Rock w^th y^e Rock on y^e back side and it appeared to me as a Cluster of Diamonds polish'd and jrregularly Cut. Some of these are hard and will Endure the Cutting and pollishing by art and soe they make rings and Earings of them, the harder the stone is more valuable, w^ch differences y^e true Diamond that will bear the fire or y^e greatest force, and Cannot be divided nor Cut but by some of itself, diamond dust being y^e only way they Can Cut diamonds that itself is Capable of Impressing Carracters on Glass.

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